MAKE: Blog http://dev-blog.makezine.com/ MAKE is a quarterly publication from O'Reilly for those who just can't stop tinkering, disassembling, re-creating, and inventing cool new uses for the technology in our lives. It's the first do-it-yourself magazine dedicated to the incorrigible and chronically incurable technology enthusiast in all of us. MAKE celebrates your right to tweak, hack, and bend technology any way you want. en-us 2008-07-06T09:47:47-08:00 Comment: Blah Blah http://dev-blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/07/comment_blah_blah.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890 I haven't worked out what spray will work yet. Clears and acylics/enamels don't seem to work. Or wax. Last thing that I was trying was white-out (correction fluid). The way that you are doing it will give enormous etch times with poor quality.I haven't worked out what spray will work yet. Clears and acylics/enamels don't seem to work. Or wax. Last thing that I was trying was white-out (correction fluid). The way that you are doing it will give enormous etch times with poor quality.

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philliptorrone 2008-07-06T09:47:47-08:00
test http://dev-blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/07/test.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890 Of course a CO2 laser won't touch the copper. the light just reflects off. That's why many higher end laser systems use copper components to set beam focus etc.

Anyway, I know what the problem is that you are having. I've found the same problem. No matter what speed and power you engrave at on your Epilog, it will always look better on the second pass. The issue is that the sprays that you are using leave a residue on the copper that your laser just burns on. For example, when you use the black and do two passes at 600 dpi, full speed and full power, it looks like it's all gone. Try a red or yellow spray and you'll see a fine residue of pigment that stays on the board.

I haven't worked out what spray will work yet. Clears and acylics/enamels don't seem to work. Or wax. Last thing that I was trying was white-out (correction fluid). The way that you are doing it will give enormous etch times with poor quality.


Hope you can work it out.

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Darron 2008-07-06T08:09:21-08:00
Arduino breakout shield from RepRap (test) http://dev-blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/06/arduino_breakout_shield_f.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890 Arduino Breakoutshield

The RepRap team introduced a simple breakout shield -

The Arduino Breakout Shield is a shield that plugs into an Arduino and provides all the Arduino pins as screw terminals. It is perfect for semi-permanent Arduino projects, or just general prototyping. It provides access to all the Arduino pins, as well as providing extra GND, 3.3v, 5v, and Supply voltage pins for convenience.
Those terminal blocks can be quite handy, a bit reminiscent of the Make controller's setup. - Arduino Breakout


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philliptorrone 2008-06-11T10:50:00-08:00
Zemana test (Arduino) http://dev-blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/06/zemana_test_arduino.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890 Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino Arduino.

A SMD (surface-mount device) FTDI chip, on the Arduino NG board from arduino.cc. Close-up shot.

Image via Wikipedia

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philliptorrone 2008-06-10T12:00:52-08:00
my test entry http://dev-blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/05/my_test_entry.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890 MAKE: Blog: Page Not Found

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